Pick a make and model. Full spec sheet, owner videos, and similar tractors on one page.
Find a model →Pit up to four models against each other. Engine, hydraulics, hitch, weight, warranty.
Open comparison →Written guides on choosing tractors, hydraulics, PTO, hitches, and maintenance.
Read articles →This is a hands-on, first-time DIY install of an aftermarket hydraulic top link on a CK4010SE, not a dealer demo. It covers unboxing a ~$260 kit ordered on Amazon, fitting banjo bolts and locking block, grinding down a bracket to clear the gas tank, hooking up to rear remotes (explaining spring-center vs detent), fixing a hydraulic leak, and testing cylinder travel. Good for owners planning the same swap and wanting real fit-up snags.
An owner-operator documenting his own first attempt at this install on his personal tractor, including mistakes along the way.
Yes. The CK series lifts about 1700 pounds on the three-point hitch, and the cylinder used is rated for 3600 PSI, which the owner says is more than enough.
Use the spring-center remote, not the detent one. Spring-center springs back to neutral so it does not send constant flow, which fits a top link cylinder rather than something needing continuous flow like a log splitter.
No. The hydraulic top link was too wide for the factory bracket, so the owner ground down the bracket end with a flap wheel a little at a time until it fit snugly.