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Find a model →Pit up to four models against each other. Engine, hydraulics, hitch, weight, warranty.
Open comparison →Written guides on choosing tractors, hydraulics, PTO, hitches, and maintenance.
Read articles →This is a real-time, hands-on 200-hour service video, part 1 of 2, done by an owner on his own 1025R (referred to here as 1023E). He walks through engine oil and filter change, air filters (inner/outer), fuel water separator, and coolant flush, including the messy parts and mistakes. Part 2 covers hydraulic fluid, filter, and front axle. Good for owners doing this service themselves.
An individual owner filming his own DIY maintenance, including fumbles and messes, not a polished dealer or professional presentation.
You just need a 17mm socket or wrench to loosen the oil pan nut and drain the oil from the bottom of the engine.
The crankcase takes a little over three quarts, with the spec being 2.9 quarts including the filter.
Yes, the owner says it is always messy, loses a fair amount of diesel, and calls it his least favorite part of the maintenance due to tight space around the filter.
Remove the screen, loosen the bib or outlet at the center of the screen with a catch pan underneath, take off the radiator cap and reservoir, then let it drain before refilling.
| John Deere 1025R | John Deere 1023E | |
|---|---|---|
| PTO horsepower | 18 hp | 16 hp |
| Loader lift capacity | Not Published | 120R: 1,823 lbf (at pivot point) |
| 3-point lift capacity | 1,177 lb | 1,177 lb |
| Hydraulic flow | 3.5 gpm | 3.5 gpm |
